My mother, my friend S. and I all set out together for Phu Kradueng National Park. We started the day at 4:25 AM, in a rat’s armpit of a town called Chumphae. We had spent the night in a shabby motel run by grotesque men who obviously championed cerumen and lanolin. We were anxious to leave, and caught the very first morning bus.
This took us to the town of Phu Kradueng, a small gateway community for the national park. There was a restaurant next to the bus station, where a half-paralyzed, half-deaf man served us coffee and yogurt. A middle-aged, bespectacled woman then appeared and shuttled us in the back of a truck to the park entrance.
Longtime readers may remember my previous visit to Phu Kradueng with Scott Hammers in 1999. The park consists of a vast plateau that rises 1300 abrupt meters from the jungle floor. It is a sky island, bearing a unique, isolated high-altitude microclimate. The top is reached by means of a steep 5km path, with most of the elevation gained in the last 1.5km.
We checked our big backpacks at the headquarters, got our tickets, and reserved a tent at the top. The tent-rental was extraordinarily exorbitant: 225 baht/night! Every other national park in Thailand rents them for 50 baht/night. For three nights’ rental we could have bought our own tent. I tried to explain this to the stony-faced money-acceptor woman, but she was unmoved. Her job was to take my money, not to justify or even consider comparative National Park economics. Anyway, we were only planning to stay two nights, so a new tent wouldn’t quite have paid for itself.
We began our walk at 7:30am, hoping to escape the ferocity of the sun which typically begins around 11:30. A group of orange-robed monks and lay support began their walk at the same time, and we leapfrogged them all the way to the top. The older monks were very friendly, wrinkled old men with ready grins and eyes twinkling behind their spectacles like stars in a telescope. The youngest monk was in his twenties, a hale young man with a powerful flat face. His shaved eyebrows gave his gaze an unnatural intensity, which, coupled with his guarded, neutral expression, made him seem like some unearthly being looking out through eyeholes in a mask of living monkflesh.
We also leapfrogged with the porters, a group of callus-shouldered folk who made their living carrying things up to the top of the plateau. Today they were carrying building supplies – long planks of synthetic materials with a waterbottle strapped on top to ease their thirst. Several of them spoke to us at varying points of the climb, when we were taking breaks at the same spot. They were polite but curious, and were evidently impressed that my white-haired mother was making the trip.
Our natural surroundings were breathtaking. Towering dipterocarp trees loomed over the path on both sides, and grew twisting buttress roots in all directions. Strangler figs engulfed other trees in varying stages of completion, like great strands of molten mozzarella flowing up the trunks of unfortunate victims and sprouting sun-stealing leaves at the top of the canopy.
Behind us, to the East, were the jungled plains of Loei Province, stretching out to hazy horizons. The sun was bright but not yet painfully hot, warming the stone steps and dry dusty earth. Dragonflies flitted by the hundreds on the trail, though no water was evident nearby. Strange birdcalls rang out through the forest, and the metallic drone of cicadas made the air itself thrum around our heads.
As we climbed, the forest became darker and thicker, and the air cooled. Giant boulders began to appear on the hillside, some of them with trees growing on top and sending down snakelike roots to communicate with the earth. The stone steps of the path took on a fairy-tale appearance, covered with broad fallen leaves and dappled with sunlight. Some of the boulders were decorated with druidic-looking adornments: short cairns and propped sticks by the hundreds, the work of luck-seeking travelers or nocturnal forest spirits.
Shortly after we took a lunch-break, the trail steepened extremely. We picked our way up among rocks that seemed to be arrested mid-tumble by coiling roots, and scooted up cleavages formed by pairs of boulders. We came to an extremely steep, stainless steel stairway, the first of several that aided us to get over the more vertical parts of the trail. At last we reached the lip of the plateau, and found ourselves on a windswept flat plain dotted with tall, graceful pine trees that looked like the ones on Japanese silk paintings. Here and there a vast oak spread its brawny arms over a circle of earth. The air was warm, dry and spicy. We celebrated the climb by hacking up a pineapple and devouring it on the spot, spitting the inedible bits into the shrubbery. We rested a while, then continued on the long, sandy road to the campsite.
The central campsite was located within a developed area that also contained several military-looking buildings, bungalows, and a row of small restaurants and souvenir shops. I applied to the quartermaster for our tent. He was a young man with a lantern jaw and a very curious twangy voice, and I immediately sensed I could trust him. He was congenial without being unctuous, and gave us extra pillows and sleeping bags at no charge.
It was still early afternoon, but storm clouds were gathering, staining the light a strange yellow and giving the atmosphere the feeling of a deep indrawn breath waiting to exhale. We retired to our respective tents for a nap, and the storm broke. It was exhilarating to be inside a thin fabric shelter while thunder and rain raged outside, and our spirits were very high.
Late in the afternoon, the rain stopped and the sun appeared for a last hurrah, making the clouds pearly in patches. We applied to a restaurant for some green curry, which was highly palatable. Then we played cards until well after dark. We nosed around the souvenir shops a bit, then decided it was a good night for a stroll. On our way back up the trail on which we had arrived, however, the military-looking ranger at the front desk prevented us. He claimed wild elephants were roving around in the area, and that we must wait until eight the next morning. Compounding my frustration was the noisy generator that had been fired up to allow park staff to enjoy the miracle of television. I explained to the ranger that I was looking for silence, but this concept was so totally alien to him that flickers of irritation began to cross his face. He finally told me I could go on a walk, the other direction, at 6am, but that was the extent of his concession.
With no walk to go on, we decided to turn in, and made our respective preparations. My mother bade me goodnight as I was still brushing my teeth. After a while S. approached me with a worried look and said something might be the matter. She refused to give me any details at first, not wanting to falsely alarm me, but in a few minutes she went back into the bathroom, and came out with a look of panic. There was blood in her urine.
A quick medical history update revealed that a chronic condition posed a serious threat to her kidneys. Semi-monthly tests looked for minute amounts of blood, for evidently when it reached detectable levels, things were shutting down and her life was at risk. Although I never actually saw the urine in question, she had no doubt whatsoever that the blood was detectable.
I roused my mother, who was in her sleeping bag but not asleep, and we had a consultation. Given the possibility that S. was bleeding to death through her kidneys, we saw no recourse but to get her to a hospital. I took her by the hand, looked her in the eyes and told her I would be with her every step of the way. Thus began a strange and difficult journey.
First I had to eat some crow and approach the ranger with all appearance of respect and submission. My dictionary inexplicably had no words for “kidney” or “emergency,” and so I pantomimed the situation. He nodded and took us to a small medical room with a pair of cots. He unlocked a cabinet and got some stomach-soothing antacid. I stopped him and tried to explain, but soon saw I was getting nowhere. I asked him if there was anybody who spoke English, and he made a call on his cell phone to the director of the park down at the base.
The man on the phone was all business. He told me the only way down was to walk. He wanted to know if the situation could wait until morning. It could not. He said his rangers would escort us to the base, and then he would drive us to the hospital. He also made a special note about the danger of wild elephants. It was a risk we were simply going to have to take. As Kurt Vonnegut put it, “Peculiar travel suggestions are dancing lessons from God.” And how we would dance before the night was through!
My mom and I packed up our bags in about three minutes, with me carrying S.’s load inside the biggest bag. Then an ancient and rusty pickup appeared to convey us to the cliff-face where the trail led down. There were five shotgun-wielding rangers in the back of the truck. We got inside, and waited five agonizing minutes for no reason we could perceive. Finally a ranger showed up with a canvas bag and distributed shells to each shotgunner, and we were on our way. One man spotlit the road in front of us, and the other ones held their weapons at the ready. The road, being composed of fine sand, made for slow going, but at last we got to the trailhead.
By now poor S. had come face to face with the ontological dread inherent in a potentially fatal medical condition, which was not aided by the terrifying aspect of a night descent on a steep, wet, slippery mountain populated by aggressive elephants. She was beginning to lose control, but my mother advised her to take it step by step, with the first step being Getting Off the Mountain. S. sobered up a bit, and we began.
We each had a headlamp, but the rangers had powerful flashlights which they kept trained at our feet, so we could always see where we were stepping. The rangers were cheerful and extremely professional. The first part of the trail was the steepest, and the rain had slickened the stones and fallen leaves, but we plodded down without incident.
As it began to level off, a low hooting call came up from below. One of the rangers answered, and soon we saw a new ranger appear in the darkness. He escorted us to where another team of men were waiting, and we were handed off. The rangers from the top wished us luck and headed back up.
The new group were puzzled because none of us was evidently in ill-health – no spouting blood or bandaged limbs. But they executed their mission with the same good-natured efficiency. We were handed off to a third group after a while, and this group had no shotguns, only slingshots.
Shortly after this group adopted us, there was a sound from the forest that could only be a large animal. Unfortunately we had to continue to get closer to that sound before we could start getting further away. The rangers urged us to hurry. We heard the sound of bamboo clattering, and several loud plosive grunts. One ranger stationed himself at the edge of the trail, slingshot drawn, while the other one hurried us down. Once we were well-past the danger, they told us it was a wild elephant irritated at having been woken by the lights and noise.
Despite everything, it was a beautiful night: warm, balmy, moist, with a faint stirring breeze. The rain had awakened a whole new suite of smells in the forest, and the trees cast black silhouettes against a dark gray sky. The moon rose, waning gibbous, and through the hazy distance it was a strangely vivid orange color: just the shade, or so I imagined, of blood-tinged urine. The only insect I saw on the whole journey down was something that flapped at my headlight with stout crispy wings. I put my hand out and it alit on my index finger: a small dragonfly, clad in green and sand-colored armor. It regarded me with its large violet eyes and seemed to nod at me. Then it flapped its wings and disappeared.
The last leg of the descent seemed to last longest. Our legs were sore, our joints aching. We had to stop for several rests. S. was evidently weakening, but drew on iron reserves of willpower to get herself down the rest of the way. At the bottom, the Big Boss was waiting with our stored bags and a truck. We piled in, and were shuttled to the local hospital. Although a major hurdle had been cleared, the ordeal was still young.
We arrived at the hospital quarter after midnight. The doctors had all departed at midnight and would not be back till 8am. The on-duty nurses, none of whom appeared older than twenty-two, were not qualified to handle an emergency. S. was still not spraying blood or cradling a severed limb, so the nurses were not convinced that there was any real medical emergency. They took her temperature and assured her she did not have the ‘flu. Then they invited us to sit for the next seven-and-three-quarters hours until a doctor appeared. There was no large dictionary available for me to make any better explanation, and the nurses were afflicted with that dull pig-headedness that prevents a person from attaining the least insight into what another person is trying to communicate.
There were no doctors and no tests that could be run. There were no international phone calls that could be made. There was no internet access. Our nerves were all shot. We quickly decided we needed another hospital. The best one in the region was Khon Kaen Ram, where there was also a medical school and a research facility. There were no taxis, buses, or vehicles of any kind available. Finally I tried another tactic. I asked the nurses if they had brothers or uncles who had cars. Yes, but they were asleep. Well, I said, do any of them want to wake up and give us a ride to Khon Kaen for $100? This got results. Another five agonizing minutes went by while the nurses clustered around a telephone.
Then a young doctor appeared, with a polite and efficient manner. He instantly grasped the situation and offered us an ambulance ride to Khon Kaen, if we would be willing to pay for it, about $60. Of course we would! He wrote a quick note to the staff at the destination, and then we got into an ambulance van. The driver was absurdly cheerful, quite evidently a man who enjoyed his job. Then, with flashing lights and dangerous speed, we were off!
We all tried to catch forty winks in the ambulance, but it was difficult. Rural townships sped past the windows like shooting stars. The flashing ambulance lights illuminated reflectors and flat shiny surfaces.
In just two hours, we reached Khon Kaen Ram, where a team of orderlies was waiting with a wheelchair. They bundled S. off to an examination room and immediately started running tests. My mother and I, mud-spattered and exhausted, heaped the backpacks into the ER waiting room and sat staring like zombies. We had been up for 22 hours and had hiked 15 kilometers on extremely steep trails, half of it at night.
The on-duty doctor was wakened from a cot and looked extremely bleary, but he was clearly competent. After examining S., he declared she was not in immediate danger but would be admitted to the hospital that night. Her urine was to be sent for various tests, and specialists would see her in the morning. She was wheeled up to a room, and I was charged with the task of finding her American doctor’s telephone number on the internet.
Fortunately the hospital had an all-night terminal, and I found the number. By this point I was feeling nearly dead of exhaustion, but I agreed to try to contact this doctor.
My mother recognized that I was too tired to accomplish anything useful at this point, and suggested we get a hotel room and sleep for a couple of hours. This we did, and then went on a quest to find a telephone that could access the far-off United States. Once again I had to deal with painfully stupid 7-11 clerks who could not be made to understand that there was urgency. They finally sold me a phone card. As far as I have been able to tell since, the card was only good for one phone booth in all of Thailand. I got hold of the operator at OHSU in Portland, but he could not hear my voice through the defective phone. I tried again, with the same result. Finally we went looking for another phone booth, of which there were dozens, but none that would accept the “LENSO” card. I still have it, and I still have not found any other place I can use it.
We returned to the hospital where S. was awake and in good humor. The specialists had seen her and decided she was not in mortal danger, but that the internal bleeding was the result of a severe bladder infection. She was on a course of antibiotics, and had been given a sponge-bath.
We discovered we could call OHSU from her bedside phone, which was a great relief. Unfortunately her doctor no longer worked at OHSU. She chatted for a while with another doctor who knew the condition, and he assured her that the Thai medicos were doing everything that their American colleagues would be doing if S. were there instead of here. This was a great comfort.
The hospital room was designed with visitors in mind, with a low couch where an Arlo could flop down and nap. This I did, with great relief, and we spent a pleasant morning at the hospital. Then my mom and I went to the local mall, where we saw Thai breakdancers performing outside of KFC, and we ate some ice cream, and walked back to the hospital. On the way we admired the red plastic palm trees and dinosaurs on the side of the road, and the curious street lamps.
By then S. was feeling much better and was ready to get out of there. She still had to wait for a final OK from her Thai doctor and a few test results, but she had unquestionably regained her spirit. Eventually the doctor came, and S. received some medicines, and was released.
To celebrate we went out to a German restaurant and had a big, delicious German dinner. Thus ended our ordeal, and thus began the ending of our long trip together. The next day we returned to Bangkok, and then my mother departed, followed by S. two days later.